Nuno’s Bistro and Bar

une 25: Nuno’s Bistro and Bar, 2440 West Arrow Route; Suite 4A; Upland

Ordered: 1 margherita (14″, $13.95 pre-tax).

When making our list of area pizzerias, we thought Nuno’s – with their ‘state of the art wood-fired oven’ that really does look nifty, mosaic-ed out as it is – had a chance to win. As the big dumb chief says, Wrong! This was okay pizza and our first local legit margherita. The basil and tomatoes and sauce were all particularly good. But there was too much cheese and it was slightly overcooked – the cheese was more chew than stretch – and, though well cooked in the nifty oven, the crust seemed not at all handmade, giving its odd symmetry and density.

Summary: While a ‘real’ margherita, not particularly better than the better doughy counterparts. (Probably better to order non-pizza items.) Sad!